| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Atlantic Ocean 2007 |
|
|
Passage
East from Bermuda to England |
|
|
|
ROUTE SUMMARY:
|
|
Depart Bermuda |
31st May 2007 |
|
Detour via Horta, The Azores |
17th-19th June 2007 |
|
Arrive Falmouth, England |
30th June 2007 |
|
Total distance sailed |
3145nm |
|
Total passage duration |
27 days |
|
- Distance Bermuda to The Azores |
- 1835nm (16 days) |
|
- Distance The Azores to England |
- 1310nm (11 days) |
|
|
|
Click here to view Google map
Click here to view North Atlantic passage chart |
|
|
|
DAY 1: 31st May 2007
|
|
|
FREE ELECTRICITY DAY! |
|
|
Written 0930 1st June 2007, Position 32deg 42N, 063deg 17W
A squeaky prop shaft
delayed our planned departure on Wed evening until early Thurs morning (31st
May). At 0800 we motored out through the Town Cut and into a choppy sea and
moderate headwind. The head wind continued throughout the day and night
although its strength diminished and so did the size of the seas. Beating
into this wind and its associated foul tide has frustrated our progress and
Friday morning finds us barely 75 miles away from Bermuda on our current
desired heading of 070. Anticipating a strong southerly wind on Monday we
are pushing out east using the engine and our extra fuel supplies loaded for
this purpose. We hope this will moderate the breeze and allow us to use it
to move more to the north in its wake. Conditions are clear skies and
sunshine. We are all settling in fine and having three aboard makes for more
pleasant watch system. Reading books and relaxing are the order of the day -
and because the engine's on it's free electricity day! |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 2: 1st
June 2007
|
|
|
A
LONG WAY FROM HOME |
|
|
Submitted 1000 LT 2nd June,
Position 33deg44N, 61deg45W
Since yesterday morning the wind has gradually dropped
to nothing and the seas replaced with an oily calm. We have been making
steady progress under engine at around 4.3 knots. Keeping the speed down to
conserve fuel. Bermuda is now 160 miles behind us, but annoyingly Bermuda
Harbour Radio are still coming through loudly on the vhf which makes it feel
like we're getting nowhere. We have noticed large numbers of Portuguese
Man-o-War. They are little rubbery floats about 10 inches long with a few
tentacles dangling down and, wonderfully, a fine clear wing on top which
acts as a sail. As the sea calmed we saw thousands of smaller ones too -
body only an inch or less long. They seem so brave out here. Last night a
Polish yacht came close alongside and we talked for a while, both happy to
see another boat. Yesterday I wrote - The enormity of the voyage ahead is
stunning. It's just so far and we travel so slowly. I have been trying to
break the distance into smaller chunks, comprehendible targets, surmountable
goals. Maybe present them to all aboard to prevent any brains melting. I
came up with this; in 5 more days, if the conditions improve and we get some
good winds, so that's 7 days out of Bermuda, if we're lucky, we will pass
our one quarter of the trip completed (almost).......it's not going to work
is it? There is only one way to think about this, it's to think about
something else, go numb, fall into a daily habit, read a book. Don't sit
there asking - are we there yet? This morning we moved some diesel from cans
into the tank - we still have 5 x 24 hrs motoring available. The transfer
was using a simple symphony which Rodger devised and which worked very well
with no spills. We are all happy aboard and enjoying these very pleasant
conditions. Maybe get wind later today, more certainly tomorrow. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 3: 2nd
June 2007
|
|
|
MOTORING THROUGH THE CALMS |
|
|
Submitted 1000 LT Sun 3rd
June, Position 34deg49N,
59deg54W, Distance made good from Bermuda 280NM
A
pleasant day motoring on calm seas yesterday. Wonderful shower on deck with
1.5L of water, it really was quite enough. Nat is looking much happier
recently as the last of her mild seasickness resolves. We sat in the cockpit
at 1900 eating excellent spaghetti bolognese (veggie) and sipping French red
wine. The breeze increased slightly and Rodger managed to sail through his
night watch saving valuable diesel, breeze dropped for me though so we
motored from 0100. Transferred another can of fuel into the tank this
morning. This leaves an almost full tank (4 days running) plus one last
emergency spare can (12 hrs). We then set the sails and guess what? we sail
along smoothly in the right direction! Making about 3.8 knots at 048deg.
Our
watch system is working very well and we are all quite happy with it. It's
like this: 2100-0100 R, 0100-0500 M, 0500-0700 N, 0700-1000 R, 1000-1300 M,
1300-1500 N, 1500-1700 R, 1700-1900 M, 1900-2100 N. Note Nat has engineered
to get sunset and sunrise but no night watch. Hope to hold this breeze now
as we proceed to our first waypoint (named TA1) at 38N55W, 300 miles away.
Sun's out, seas are pretty calm and the breeze pushes us along effortlessly. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 4: 3rd
June 2007
|
|
|
AIR POWERED AT LAST |
|
|
Written 1200 LT Monday 4th
June, Position 35deg50N,
058deg29W
Yesterday morning (day 4)we set the sails and although slow and a little
frustrating at times we are still sailing. We had a relaxing day and enjoyed
the quiet of engineless travel. For dinner Nat made pizza. The dough mix was
excellent and she span the base in the air like an Italian. Topping was tom,
cheese, mushroom, olive, onion. This morning (day 5) we broke out Big Bertha
(our cruising chute) and we are currently making a respectable 5.5 knots
over ground. In 15 miles or so we will crossing the 36degN latitude line and
the current becomes more favourable north of there - we should get 0.5-0.7
with us all the way back. The weather this morning is hazy sunshine, quite
warm and feeling humid. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 5 & 6:
4th-5th June 2007
|
|
|
CRASHING ALONG |
|
|
Written 1800 LT (2200 BST)
5th June, Position 37deg24N,
055deg57W, distance made good from Bermuda 525M, dist to Falmouth m2300M
The
wind steadily increased through yesterday and last night. After wallowing
listlessly in a calm sea we are now hurtling along crashing into and
launching ourselves off the back of steep waves. We are sailing on a close
reach into 20 knots from SE-SSE, the weather is overcast and a bit grim.
Moving around and preparing food is difficult and we find ourselves lying in
the bunks dozing whenever possible. The good news is we are really moving at
last, our 24 hour run to now is 126 miles. We have been at sea for 6 days
now and as the days go by, increasingly, they start to dissolve into one.
Time starts to speed up a bit as we go into semi-hibernation. We are all
quite well and getting along fine. Pasta and tomato sauce for dinner
tonight. Last night we had black bean chilli with rice and chips. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 7: 6th
June 2007
|
|
|
RUNNING WITH THE GULF STREAM |
|
|
Written 1930 LT 6th June, Position 37deg57N,
52deg48W, S15, overcast.
Last
night and this morning we found ourselves in the fast running current called
the gulf stream. This made the seas very rough and with the overcast wet
weather gave us an uncomfortable and grim night. The waves seemed to
coalesce and form pyramid shaped peaks and every 15 min's or so we would fly
off the top of one of these 10 foot heaps and drop into the trough beyond.
There followed a loud crash and the whole boat shuddered. Grapefruit flew!
We reduced the boatspeed to 4.5 knots to limit the impact but it was still
awful. The good news is the with 2 knots of favourable current even at the
reduced boatspeed we managed our best 24 hr run of 148.5 miles! Since midday
today the seas have improved, but the current reduced; we're happy. We
passed another vessel here last night. It was research ship 'Atlantic
Explorer' taking samples in the gulf stream. We had a chat on the vhf. It
was good to see someone else out here, they were friendly. Using our tow
generator is satisfying our electrical needs and we have started using short
bursts on the radar as our primary lookout method at night. One week out now
and Rodger made kedgeree to celebrate. All well. Now well past our first
waypoint (38N55W) and only 600M to the next, the almost halfway point at
40N40W. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 8 & 9:
7th-8th June 2007
|
|
|
DARK AND STORMY |
|
|
Written 1730 LT 8th June, Position 39deg08N,
047deg48W, SE 15-18, Sunny
Last
night, having passed 52deg30W, we set our clocks forward one hour. We are
now 3 hours behind current UK time (BST) or 2 hours behind UT. We celebrated
with a Dark and Stormy (Dark Rum and Ginger Beer) then had some glorious
baked potato for dinner. Unfortunately the sea built quickly after this and,
tired now from 3 days beating to windward in these conditions, we all
started to feel pretty hacked off. But this morning the sun came out and the
seas subsided a little and, as always making good progress, we felt more
positive. Today we have less than 2000 miles to go! The forecast suggests
that the wind and sea will subside on Sun for a day or two so we plan to
have showers and tidy the boat then. Monday should see us pass the halfway
mark. Settling down for a dinner of Spaghetti Bolognese soon (veggie of
course), then hopefully a quiet night. Tide is with us and we make about 6.5
miles per hour. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 10 & 11:
9th-10th June 2007
|
|
|
AZORES HERE WE COME |
|
|
Written 0400, Mon 11th June
(early on day 12), Position 39deg56N,
042deg29W, calm, overcast. 635M to Azores.
Shortly after the last log was written (Fri eve) the wind dropped and we had
to motor for a few hours. The wind picked up again early morning but light
from a direction and which forced us well north of our course. Rather than
strengthening to 20 knots as forecast it tormented us for the morning then
dropped to very light in the afternoon. As we wallowed about we reviewed the
situation. The wind had gone 24 hrs earlier than expected, we were in the
middle of a region of high pressure. Winds were forecast for Mon allowing
good progress east but a low pressure north of the Azores would block our
progress north toward UK for some time yet. We decided to make a course for
the Azores and make a stop there. The Azores are a small group of islands,
similar in size to the Canaries or the Cape Verdes, placed mid-Atlantic a
little over halfway on our way between Bermuda and UK and only slightly off
the direct route. Most boats stop there on the way home. With this new
refuelling stop we could afford to motor through the calm and good progress
east was promised by the forecast winds from Monday. As a result we have
been motoring just south of east since 1800 on Sat evening. We hope to make
landfall on Sat (16th) at Horta on the island of Faial.
After
the initial disappointment at not proceeding directly home we have all been
much encouraged by the prospect of a friendly harbour just 6 days away. The
past 36 hours motoring in almost smooth water have been very pleasant. The
boat is steady, level and dry (no salt spray). No sail changes are required
and progress is always in the right direction. The sudden increase in marine
life has been stunning, a product I think of both a new area of ocean and
the improved conditions allowing us to see more. Dolphins play around the
boat a lot of the time; sometimes we see them chasing shoals of fish which
leap out of the water. We pass turtles and jelly-fish, but most of all we
have seen whales. Yesterday morning a whale swam alongside only 50 feet away
before diving just in front of us, and on the horizon we see them leaping
straight up then falling down on their sides. We are eating well. Nat's
provisioning in St. Maarten and Bermuda was comprehensive, in fact I suspect
we have enough food to complete a number of laps of the Atlantic. New snacks
and meals emerge daily much to our delight and Nat baked a fruit cake and a
loaf of bread yesterday.
The
boat is working perfectly. We hope for wind today which should hold until we
reach Horta. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 12 & 13:
11th-12th June 2007
|
|
|
RUNNING AT LAST |
|
|
Written 0400 Wed 13th June
(early on day 14), Position 39deg18N,
037deg12W, 391nm to Horta, ETA Sat 16th June.
As
forecast, the wind filled in from the west and by midday on Mon we had
stopped our trusty engine, spread the sails and with the gentle sound of
burbling water coming from the stern we began running effortlessly downwind
toward our destination of Horta. These dreamy conditions didn't last long
though and by late afternoon cloud filled the sky, the sea was up and we
crashed and rolled along with 20 knots behind us. We were all happy though
to be making some real progress again without the use of diesel. Nightfall
brought unbroken cloud and a succession of heavy downpours. Tucked below on
watch we used the radar to pierce the gloom and watch for other vessels.
The
conditions have remained broadly the same since then. The wind has veered
slowly from SW to W and we expect it to clock around some more to NW.
Windspeed varies from 25 gusting 28 to a low of about 13-15. Through the
water we make around 4.5-5.5 knots but 0.5-0.8 knots of fair current means
we make good progress. Our ETA into Horta is midday on Sat and below decks
talk is of lively bars serving cold drinks with ice and restaurants
preparing fresh fish and chips, of arriving in Europe (albeit a remote
outpost), and of completing well over half of the trip back to UK. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 14 & 15:
13th-14th June 2007
|
|
|
HORTA - WATCHING THE ETA |
|
|
Written 0400 LT, Friday
15th June (early on day 16), Position 38deg54N,
032deg19W, Horta 160nm, Bermuda 1625nm, Wind W20, squalls.
Conditions have continued much the same as those described in the previous
log, although last night the wind dropped enough to reduce our speed to
barely 4 knots and as we rolled limply through the night I watched,
frustrated, as our ETA to Horta slipped into Sat night and even Sun morning.
Daylight brought heavy rain then the wind resumed and we are again making
good progress. Hoisted our cruising chute "Bertha" a few times yesterday,
rushing forward to lower it sometime later when the squalls sent us into
warp speed. The sea is quite rough at times and maybe as a consequence we
have seen less marine life recently. We can hear dolphins click and sing
through the hull though as they pass close by. Rodger saw a large shark pass
close by yesterday - about 5m long and sinister. Our ETA is still Sat. The
wind is due to veer NW then north soon so we will gybe the pole tomorrow and
get a bit further upwind in preparation. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 16 & 17:
15th-16th June 2007
|
|
|
RAISING THE AZORES |
|
|
Written 0730 Sat 16th June, Position 38deg33N,
29deg10W, N20 squally with periods of 30 knots.
Sailed well yesterday. Wind started to veer to NW then N last night and
freshened bringing very rough conditions and an uncomfortable night for us
all. Very large waves and gusty winds made it difficult for the wind
steering to control the boat on a broad reach and I spent all night
adjusting sails to get some balance. Daylight always brings more cheer and
after a last brief torrential downpour 2 minutes ago I can see some blue sky
appearing. We can't see Faial yet but it is only 19nm away so we hope to be
in the marina at Horta in 4-5 hrs. All well if a little tired after 16 days
at sea.
Arrived in Horta at 1300 (1300UT, 1400BST) on 16th June. Friendly here but busy. Out for
beer and food then sleep. All happy and well. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 1: 19th
June 2007
|
|
|
ON
OUR WAY AGAIN |
|
|
Written 0500 20th June, Position 39deg50N,
027deg44W, 90nm from Horta, 1150nm from Falmouth, W10
We
had a great time in the exceptionally busy but well run Horta marina.
Refuelling, minor reprovisioning and some small repairs filled our days and
we spent the evenings sipping beer and eating good simple food at (famous?)
Peter's bar. With some sadness, but encouraged by the comforts of life
ashore, Natalya flew home to England from Horta leaving Rodger and myself to
sail the remaining leg. And so yesterday morning at 0930 we left Horta,
missing Nat's presence aboard but otherwise happy to be moving again and to
be setting out in such pleasant weather. The forecast was for light winds
over the first 4 days and we motored all of the first day. Three hours ago
the wind increased and we have been sailing slowly since, happy to be saving
the fuel for possible calms later. The passage is around 1250nm which will
take around 11 days. We have enough fuel to motor for 6 days or 600nm. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 2: 20th
June 2007
|
|
|
NORTH BY NORTH NORTH WEST |
|
|
Written 0500UT 21st June, Position 41deg44N,
027deg21W, W10-12, overcast.
We've
now been sailing for 14 hrs and have made some good progress. With the
chance of light winds for the whole trip conserving fuel now is a real
advantage. The wind remains light so our speed is fairly slow but the small
swell means the going is easy and comfortable. We are not heading on a
direct course for our destination; Rather we are steering between north and
northnorthwest. We are taking this route to sail clear of an area of foul
wind and current to the east of us, to make distance north in anticipation
of northerly winds (blowing from north to south) which are possible on the
weekend. This course also maximises our speed in these lighter winds by
keeping it on the side of the boat. I made omelettes for brunch with beans
and toast. They were filled with a French long life soft cheese (La vache
qui rit - bit like dairylea) which made them dangerously tasty. Rodger
cooked his excellent kedgeree for dinner then we watched a film (Wimbledon)
- decadence indeed.
Another 2 days on this heading and we may be in a position to hang a right
and head straight for Falmouth. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 3: 21st
June 2007
|
|
|
SHIP WATCHING |
|
|
Written 0500 Fri 22nd June
(early on day 4), Position 43deg32N,
026deg26W, SW12. 1000nm to go.
We
sailed north for much of the day then as the breeze dropped late afternoon
we started the engine and altered course to around 030 to make for our
current waypoint at 45N25W. We are still motoring. An easy and relaxing day
generally, we transferred some diesel from jerry cans into the main tank and
I repaired the ripped canvas halyard bag which helps keep the cockpit clear
of lines. So far the trip has been clear of shipping (or at least they are
staying out of sight and radar range) but as we approach the channel we
expect to see more. Ships for reasons of speed and fuel economy tend to
follow certain tracks and yesterday I traced the great circle routes onto
our passage chart between English Channel and both Panama and eastern US.
While crossing these routes we will be especially vigilant. Our NASA AIS
detector works well and this new device has quickly become an essential tool
for us (it receives information on position speed and course broadcast by
big ships). It's Friday today and we are planning a Dark and Stormy this
evening. Tomorrow (Sat) will see us with only one week to go. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 4: 22nd
June 2007
|
|
|
MOTORSAILING IS THE WAY |
|
|
Written 0500, Sat 23rd
June, Position 45deg11N,
025deg14W, WNW 12, misty with limited visibility.
Mild
and changing conditions yesterday. The wind backed to SW and varied in
strength throughout the day. When I say varied I mean increased whenever we
were motoring and decreased rapidly whenever we set tried to sail. This
became irritating. Keen to get north of my projected Panama/Channel shipping
route we decided to motor with the sail up and ignore what the wind was
doing. If the wind increased for a while we just went a bit faster. During
the night the wind has veered to WNW, as predicted, and although its
strength is as before its direction means we can sail with it. These
conditions really are quite different to those during the previous passages.
The wind is steady in strength rather than all or nothing experienced over
the last month and this steady mild/ moderate wind leaves the sea fairly
flat - unlike the large angry swells which threw us all about between
Bermuda and Azores. This passage is comfortable and easy, but slow. No ships
and only the odd brief visit from dolphins makes it feel quite lonely.
For
our Friday evening the sun came out briefly for us and we sat in the cockpit
for Darks and Stormies. Dinner was baked Azorean potatoes (excellent) with
frankfurter sausages, fried onions, sweetcorn and peas. A truly inspired
combo which was delicious. It's getting gradually colder (19degC) and as the
temperature difference between the inside of my bed and the outside world
grows I find, with the exception of food, this is what pre-occupies my mind
- getting between those covers for as long as possible.
This
afternoon we should be clear of that shipping route and in a position to set
a course for western approaches to the Channel. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 5: 23rd
June 2007
|
|
|
ON
COURSE FOR THE CHANNEL |
|
|
Written 0430, Sun 24th
June, position 46deg15N, 022deg59W, NNE 15, cloudy some rain, Falmouth 750nm
Conditions have changed quite a bit since the previous log. The wind which
blew from behind us has veered (swung around clockwise - the opposite is
backing) to blow in our face. During the change we had an afternoon of
glorious fast easy sailing as the wind came from the side, but since
yesterday evening we have been beating hard into the weather. The boat is
leaning over and crashing into the waves. We were unable to make our course
for a while, always a bit disheartening, but we're doing better now. This
change in wind direction also signalled the time for us to stop heading
north and aim straight at Falmouth. We passed some ships today (well,
travelling at 20 knots I think they probably passed us). They were just
where we anticipated them on the route to Panama. Although we look out to
the horizon and use the radar the first indication of their presence is
always on the AIS - I know I keep going on about this but it really is
making a big difference. It's been pretty overcast for days now and we
haven't seen much sun, stars or moon which is a bit sad, hopefully it will
clear up before we arrive.
I've
been doing some calculations on the passage to UK from St Maarten in the
Caribbean. We have travelled 3000nm so far since leaving on 9th May, and
have just 750nm left to go giving an ETA of Sat 30th June into Falmouth. On
arrival Free Spirit will have been on passage for 40 out of the 52 days
since leaving the Caribbean.
It's
dawn and the first light reveals our boat bravely pushing through the swells
and toward a beautiful sunrise. We are on course for the Channel and making
5.5 knots. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 6: 24th
June 2007
|
|
|
HALFWAY |
|
|
Written 0500 Mon 25th June, Position 46deg51N,
019deg56W, 625nm to go, N-NNE 12-15.
We've
passed our half way point in both distance and time now. With Falmouth on
the bow and estimated arrival on Saturday it's starting to feel closer. The
wind is coming from a little east of north and this is forcing us to sail as
close to the wind as we can to hold our course. Although the boat is sailing
well we are looking forward to the predicted backing of the wind to north
then north-west which will give us a little more speed and smooth out the
boat's motion. This northerly wind is perishing cold and without much sun to
tempt us into the cockpit we are spending most time below; eating, sleeping
or reading. As I noted previously emerging from ones bunk to start a watch
is becoming more difficult with this drop in temperature and we considered
eating one very large meal then going to sleep until, say, Friday afternoon.
Like the opening scene from "Alien" we would rise from our deep slumber,
stretch a few times, have a bite to eat and then start rigging fenders.
On
our mostly easterly course we are chasing the dawn each morning and the
difference is quite noticeable. The boat is on UT (Universal Time, the same
as Greenwich Mean Time) and we've decided to hold with this for the remains
of the trip. We are 1 hr behind England which is on British Summer Time. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 7: 25th
June 2007
|
|
|
A
FINE BALANCE |
|
|
Written 0430, Tues 26th
June (early on Day 8). Position 47deg42N, 017deg16W, 505nm to Falmouth, NNE
12-16, overcast.
We
continue to sail into the wind and swell. The motion yesterday was quite
violent for much of the time. The boat, always heeled at an angle of 20
deg., jolts from side to side unpredictably. Pouring liquids is comical.
Turn on the sink tap and, rather than filling the cup you hold beneath it,
the water emerges horizontally and lands on your shoe. Then determined to
brace yourself you spread-eagle across the cabin, shoulder on one wall -
foot outstretched toward the other, but as soon as you occupy you hands in
some task the boat then drives into a wave and decelerates abruptly sending
you flying forwards and hitting your forehead or cheek against a door or
wall. It's not really painful or dangerous but can get quite annoying and
although we have plenty of water for showers we must wait until conditions
improve. Although tempted to ease away from the wind and head more to the
south to reduce the motion our resolve to keep pressing north was renewed
when we encountered a foul current. This slowed the boat by 0.7 knots for
most of the afternoon. Heading north seems to have moved us out of this
contrary stream and now we have 0.3 knots in our favour. The wind has been
quite variable through the night. In the gusts, unless the sail balance is
just right, the boats swerves off in crazy directions with our wind steering
struggling to regain control. I spent an hour peering into the darkness this
morning balancing the sails and watching the effects. A regular pattern has
developed for me each day. After writing the log and other emails at 0500 I
connect to a station in Belgium to send them, the radio waves travel well at
this time. Then I get some cereal for breakfast before waking Rodger at 0600
and sleeping until 1000 - I normally sleep well during this time. At 1000 I
am back on watch Rodger goes to sleep again. While on watch we check for
other vessels every 15 mins or less. We do this with the AIS receiver and
using short periods on the radar. We look out visually as well although we
rely on this less than the electronic aids. The weather emails are in by
then so I connect again to download them and analyse them. About 1330 Rodger
wakes and we have some lunch together - perhaps an ommlette or pasta with
tomato sauce, until 1430 when I lounge about reading or dozing until 1700.
We wander about, chat and have dinner until about 2100 when I go to sleep
until I come on watch at 0100. With only 500 nm to go we are starting to
feel closer to Falmouth now. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAY 8: 26th
June 2007
|
|
|
MOTORING THROUGH THE LULLS |
|
|
Written 1300 on Wed 27th
June, (afternoon on day 9), posn. 48deg35N, 013deg12W, WNW 10-25, overcast,
332nm to go
Yesterday, as expected, the wind backed around to blow from our port quarter
(over our left shoulder). During the change there were a few lulls and,
being now rich in diesel (i.e. enough to motor all the way back if reqd), we
motored through these. Falmouth feels close now; we are in the British sea
area of Sole and we can hear R4 on longwave at night, so we get impatient
with anything less than 5 knots. Since leaving the Azores we've been sailing
in around 4000m of water but over the next 24 hrs the water depth will
decrease to a relatively shallow 200m. We will pass onto the continental
shelf. We've had a busy night and morning. A succession of squalls have
overtaken us since around 1100 last night. In a 30 min cycle the winds built
up to 25 knots, causing a steep choppy sea then after a brief shower leaving
us stationary but rolling badly in 10 knots. We had to adjust sail
constantly to keep the boat balanced and use the engine to keep moving. It's
finally settled and I can get this log written.
As
you will know we get email aboard while at sea using our long distance radio
and Sailmail. Our subscription to the service expires tomorrow (Thurs) -
probably in the evening. This means any emails sent after that date must be
sent to our land email address, given in the "contact us" pages of this web
site. The MK***@sailmail.com address will cease. We will be in mobile phone
range on Friday sometime so you can send a text and we will update the site
using that.
And
so our last leg of the passage home from the Caribbean draws to a close, a
passage that at times was so awesome I couldn't believe it would ever end. A
long ocean passage aboard a small boat is so removed from life on land that
it can be difficult to imagine its value. The unremitting and sometimes
frustrating environment of the boat can make those aboard the most confused
on this point, including myself. However, it makes its mark. The endless
expanse of nothing around the boat becomes a place for thought to expand
into; the simple tasks of watch keeping and sail handling the mantra. Images
and feelings, sounds and movement so slow, simple, repetitive and foreign to
those of normal life imbed deep into memory. For me the experience is unique
and valuable, perhaps making a subtle change to the way I approach life
ashore. I know I will miss it once it ends. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 9 & 10:
27th-28th June 2007
|
|
|
AHOY QUEEN MARY II |
|
|
Written 1500, Thurs 28th
June (afternoon of day 10), posn 49deg11N, 009deg56W, SW18, sunny periods,
175nm to go.
The
wind settled yesterday but didn't have quite the puff to make the progress
we wished. We motor-sailed for a few hours last night. Today though the wind
has backed to the SW and is blowing well - we're moving at last. We hadn't
seen much shipping for a while but yesterday we had the worst possible
situation. A large vessel appeared on the horizon at 8nm, about as close as
we can pick them up reliably, it was heading in the exact opposite direction
and directly at us. And it's speed was 27 knots! We ran around a bit knowing
that avoiding action had to be taken pretty soon. Luckily they steered
clearly south very quickly. As it got closer we saw it was Queen Mary 2, a
very smart cruise ship. They went past about 2 miles away and we said hello
on the radio. This morning we passed over the Sole bank and weaved our way
past a number of slow moving fishing vessels. With only 175nm to go we're
starting to feel like we're almost there. It would be quite fun if it wasn't
for a deep depression which is determined to give us one last thing to worry
about. Saturday morning looks to be breezy (poss 30 knots) with heavy rain.
The good news is that the wind will be coming from directly behind us so it
won't be too bad. Anyway so we are going as fast as we can hoping to get
there before it catches us. We hope to arrive early Sat morning. I think
that this will be the last log until we get home from Falmouth. So don't
worry if it fails to report our arrival for a few days. You can always text
us or email on the land email. |
|
|
|
|
|
DAYS 11&12:
29th-30th June 2007
|
|
|
ARRIVAL IN FALMOUTH |
|
|
It is
tempting to feel a rush of relief and security as land approaches after a
long passage. This is a mistake. The end of a passage often brings more
taxing navigation, increased shipping, and of course the threat of shallow
water and land to the crew at a time when they are most tired. Additionally,
in our case, strong winds, rough seas and poor visibility in heavy rain were
forecast for Friday night and Saturday morning. I decided we should make all
reasonable speed in an attempt to beat these bad conditions to Falmouth and
so after making good progress on the Thursday night when the wind eased on
Fri morning we began motor sailing and in fact continued in this manner
until our arrival into the port on Saturday morning.
On Fri the conditions
were good throughout the day. As we approached the shipping lane south of
the Scilly Isles I decided take advantage of the good conditions and push
north across the lanes and into the inshore zone near Land’s End . This was
a mistake. The lanes were clear but the narrow unregulated zone closer
inshore was very busy. Without the order of the lanes ships were approaching
from all directions and many were turning as they cleared the end of Britain
and set course for ports in the Channel. This made tracking them more
difficult. Rodger and I worked non-stop for 3 hours watching, tracking,
logging and sometimes contacting these large ships to ensure they had seen
us and were steering clear. It was a bit like rolling an egg across the
floor of a busy shopping centre and hoping that in addition to avoiding each
other each person kept an eye on the egg. We were the egg! In fact all the
crews on these large ships were glued to their radar and AIS just like us
and I think we were detected and tracked by all the ships despite our size.
A quick call on the radio certainly made us feel better when they approached
too close though. Thankfully the weather remained benign and the visibility
moderate or good throughout.
In the first hour of
Sat morning we rounded the Lizard headland and finally left all the traffic
behind. Despite only 3 miles distant the powerful lighthouse could not be
seen. A little later as dawn broke we saw that torrential rain was cloaking
this famous landmark. With the first signs of light and only a couple of
hours of easy motor-sailing remaining I could relax and indulge myself with
memories of our trip which began exactly two years before in this same
place. Our voyage around the North Atlantic had given us a decade of
experiences, adventures and friends in a fraction of the time. Although
taking us many miles from our families their support was always
unquestioning and complete, and we return closer to them than before.
As we entered Falmouth
the rain enveloped us and dripping wet we tied up alongside and stepped
ashore. Almost immediately John (my father) arrived and we drank hot coffee
and recalled details of our trip as the wind howled through the rigging – we
had made it back just ahead of the bad weather.
A few hours later found
us heading north on the rain-battered roads, towards Nat’s parents’ home.
There we toasted the perfect end to our sailing adventures … a new adventure
already begun. A little life was already 4 months in the making and we can’t
wait to meet our beautiful baby in November. |
|
|
|
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|